The Pera Museum

Sometimes I have to remind myself that I am an art history major, and that is why I am here.  When I have begun to settle into a routine of waking up, going to class, watching an absurd amount of Mad Men, and possibly getting exercise if I'm not too emotionally exhausted from watching Donald Draper's life fall apart at the seams, it is important that I take a step back and remember that I'm in Istanbul.  Despite what the weather throws at us, which has been rain for the past week, I need to keep my head above the clouds and remember how lucky I am to be here.

Yesterday my flatmate Zoe and I battled the elements to go see the Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera exhibition at the Pera Museum in the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, a short walk from Taksim Square.  I have been familiar with both artists for a long time, but I had never seen their work in person, and I had been meaning to go since last semester.  Kahlo featured more prominently, probably because Rivera is mostly known for his murals, and they aren't exactly portable.  The exhibition space was small, but the museum managed to fit quite a lot into the confined area.  I learned that Kahlo and Rivera were actually married, which was news to me, and it was interesting seeing how they influenced each other.  One particular Frida Kahlo painting struck me, mostly because I thought it was oddly spiritual and quite strange.  Notice how Rivera is featured in the painting.

The Love Embrace of the Universe, the Earth (Mexico), Me,  and Señor Xolotl
Frida Kahlo, 1949

Kahlo was in a tragic accident when she was 18, and throughout the rest of her life underwent something like 20 surgeries.  She lived in constant physical pain, and died at a relatively young age.  She had several miscarriages that I imagine were related to her physical maladies, and these also influenced the emotional elements of her work.

Miscarriage
Frida Kahlo

The Pera Museum also has an great collection of orientalist paintings, which includes one in particular that I recognized from its prints, which are sold all over the city.  I am sorry to report that I don't really know about the history of tortoise training in Istanbul.  I don't really think it actually happened.  But it's a nice thought, isn't it?  

The Tortoise Trainer
Osman Hamdi Bey, 1906/1907

I don't think the lettuce that this guy is feeding them is really inspiring the tortoises to perform.  I know that if I were a tortoise, you'd have to give me something a little bit more exciting than lettuce if you wanted me to do tricks.  Just saying.